Kitchen Design Tidbits to Increase Your Storage Space and Efficiency, But Decrease Your Kitchen Size
As an Architect, I endeavor to use the best methods for configuration to make a house more effective and all around used for the area. In this article, I'm managing kitchen configuration, and how to make it more effective being used and capacity, influence it to feel more open than a standard kitchen, however do it in a littler size (area costs cash).
I am a major adherent to the "Open Floor Plan" which has less dividers and entryways, with rooms entwined as open visual space. Keeping the Great Room, Dining Room and Kitchen "open" (which means no dividers between them) help influence every one of the rooms "to feel greater". The divider evacuation encourages the open interchanges between the rooms. You don't feel disconnected in the kitchen when divider obstructions are evacuated, and along these lines individuals don't need to venture into the kitchen to converse with you. They can do it from outside the kitchen zone.
Keep your roofs tall by putting in scissors trusses. You can influence your dividers 8 to foot tall, yet by including the scissors truss (crest at 13 to 14 feet) will give you bunches of visual space and a less limited inclination. Also, get a sky facing window in the kitchen. The opening for a sky facing window can be substantially greater than the sky facing window itself. Get the opening from the pinnacle of the roof to the edge of the divider, and find the bay window close to an opposite divider so it will scatter the light all through the kitchen. Put a few "specialties" in your tall dividers over the 8' line for greenery, or statues. Put "puck" lights in these specialties for highlight lighting.
Utilize tall, 2' profound cupboards rather than overhead cupboards. 2 foot profound, 7 foot tall cupboards (or 8 foot tall) are otherwise called wash room or utility cupboards. With settled racks, they hold more than 4 fold the amount of stuff as an overhead bureau. Put a line of tall cupboards along a back divider, and close to the opening to the kitchen zone. By having a 2' wide, 2' profound, 7' tall cupboard close to the Kitchen opening (generally alongside the Dining Area) it can store every one of the glasses, dishes, platters, and dishes that you use once a day. Individuals don't need to enter the kitchen to get the dinnerware to set the table as you would with overhead cupboards.
By utilizing only 3 tall cupboards (2' profound 7' tall) at the back of the kitchen, and the open floor design, this permits all whatever remains of the kitchen to have 36" tall base cupboards and ledges, without overhead cupboards. Disposing of overhead cupboards (and the related divider) just gives you a mind boggling open feeling. The kitchen isn't as so confined. The windows and characteristic light originate from the windows of alternate rooms and sky facing windows, which means you don't need to squander profitable kitchen divider space for windows. Place your sink and cooktop to confront the open rooms.
Toward the edges of the kitchen, introduce cupboards at 45 degrees to the connecting cupboards as opposed to a "visually impaired" cupboard or "lethargic susan". While a 45 degree bureau has some dead space, it uses more space than a "languid susan", for the most part on the grounds that the bureau racks and drawers are square, and an "apathetic susan" is round.
Put a storeroom in the corner between your tall cupboards. It doesn't need to be enormous (4' x 4') and being in the corner will use all the corner "dead" space. The wash room would have a 2' opening at 45 degrees to the bordering cupboards. The wash room dividers could be 2x4 confined with drywall or 3/4" MDF, yet the divider shouldn't be taller than the stature of the tall cupboards. This takes into consideration crown shaping (in the event that you utilize it) to likewise be utilized on the wash room. Have the storeroom open at the best, particularly if there is a sky facing window above, to permit sunlight into the wash room. Have racks from the floor to best of divider. Put a "bureau entryway" (same as whatever is left of your tall cupboards) on the storeroom entrance, not an edge entryway like you'd use in the room. By having a bureau entryway the wash room, and the storeroom dividers at an indistinguishable range from the cupboards, the storeroom resembles a bureau as opposed to a drywall opening.
In the storeroom, introduce a counter with 4 electric outlets. This is the place the espresso creator, toaster, electric can openers, and so forth are to be for all time found. It keeps them off your kitchen ledges, yet they are constantly accessible to utilize. No compelling reason to store them in your cupboards and no requirement for machine carport cupboards. This leaves your primary kitchen ledges "clean" (nothing on them) and more open for the nourishment prep you have to do.
Put an upper counter 8" over your ledges (i.e. 6" divider, 2" thick upper counter). In an "open floor design" idea, this 8" of tallness conceals a "chaotic" kitchen counter from view to alternate rooms. It additionally gives you a lot of space for various electric outlets in the in the 6" divider ranges. The 6" tall divider is the correct stature for 6" earthenware divider tile. The upper counter is 44" (elbow stature) an ideal tallness for "inclining". This enables your visitors to "lean" on the counter (out of the kitchen) and chat with you while you're planning nourishment (in the kitchen). It's likewise a decent tallness for serving nourishment or for tall stools as a breakfast bar. Not the greater part of the upper counters must be the some width. A few areas might be 9" wide (only a best to the kitchen segment, while different segments of the upper counter can be 24'' wide, to serve sustenance or as a breakfast bar.
Now...I'm talking about this segment last on the grounds that distinctive customers utilize their kitchens in an unexpected way, and each individual has their own taste. I'm not discussing the size (in spite of the fact that it's connected), but rather what number of individuals they need in a kitchen. A few customers need everybody in the kitchen, including visitors and relatives, to help in cooking or preparing the dinner, which implies a bigger kitchen to deal with the general population. Others don't need anybody however a couple of individuals in kitchen, so they're not stumbling over individuals to get the feast completed, which implies a littler more productive kitchen.
Most present day house outlines have the kitchen open to the carport or back entryway and open to family room and additionally different rooms, for example, breakfast zones, lounge areas, or lobbies. This implies the kitchen has numerous openings to deal with these capacities. A few kitchens additionally have "island" cupboards/ledges with at least two openings. Every one of the openings to the kitchen enables individuals to come in, remain around, or go through the kitchen from Point A to Point B elsewhere in the house. Additionally, one of the eccentricities of our human brain research is everybody in the long run winds up in the kitchen. This outline idea utilizes the kitchen as a "movement passage". These kitchens require a lot of space to deal with the volume of activity. Once more, a few customers cherish the stream of individuals all through the kitchen. They simply require a bigger kitchen space for this happen
Different customers think the "movement hall" kitchen idea "obstructs" up the kitchen with pointless and undesirable individuals. Include me the "keep-the-pointless individuals out-of-the-kitchen" class. I get a kick out of the chance to keep the kitchen open and welcoming, I simply don't need the additional bodies while the feast is being readied. By keeping the additional bodies out, the kitchen can be littler and more effective, which means less strides between the fridge, cooktop and sink.
Keeping individuals out of the kitchen is anything but difficult to do in your plan, simply make it troublesome for them to get in. Utilize a wrapping ledge with only one (1) ledge opening into the kitchen, and find that opening in the most troublesome spot to enter the kitchen. This, alongside the "open floor design" is the best approach to avert undesirable kitchen activity. The single kitchen passage will mentally keep them out of the kitchen zone, while the open floor design (no dividers) enables you to speak with family and visitors, while keeping them out of the kitchen.
With the goodies I've talked about above and by keeping the general population out of a kitchen, a kitchen size of 16'x10' or 12'x12' is exceptionally successful, with huge amounts of capacity. Making the kitchen an "activity passageway" for individuals to go through, the kitchen would need to twofold in measure, and you're not picking up storage room with that size since every one of the openings to the kitchen are gobbling up what could have been utilized for cupboards.
With respect to lighting, most kitchens have a couple of primary method for lighting (or mix of these)
A. Light in the roof fan
B. "Can" lights in the roof
C. Under-bureau lighting (more often than not puck lights or fluorescent strips)
I by and large reject these lighting ideas. With a light in the roof fan, you generally have the light at your back, which means you're throwing shadows onto all that you do on the ledge. Can lights are "vitality pigs" since they cut huge gaps in your protection, and utilize wasteful glowing lighting (more often than not 75 watt). I don't utilize overhead cupboards so in this manner wipe out under-bureau lighting, which is at times costly
With the tall roofs of a scissors truss, I get a kick out of the chance to utilize MR16 movable light installations, not "can" lights. The MR16's are normally know as "strip" lighting. In any case, you'll need to utilize a "plate" rather than a "strip" for the apparatus association. By utilizing a plate, the MR16 utilizes a standard electrical box, so a littler opening in your protection cover contrasted with a "can" light, and they draw out twice as much light for less wattage (as a rule 50 watts) than a "can" light. MR16 apparatuses can be little (so you don't see them) and not expensive (around $20). MR16's are flexible, which means you can point the light where you need it. A "can" light guides light opposite toward the roof. In a slanted roof, that is bad. Find your lights over the ledge to dispose of shadows, along your significant work territories (sinks, cooktop, cutting and prepare ranges) and after that convey equally along whatever remains of the ledges. You truly needn't bother with lights somewhere else other than for highlight lighting. The lights over the counters will be all that anyone could need, accepting you're keeping the kitchen littler.
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I am a major adherent to the "Open Floor Plan" which has less dividers and entryways, with rooms entwined as open visual space. Keeping the Great Room, Dining Room and Kitchen "open" (which means no dividers between them) help influence every one of the rooms "to feel greater". The divider evacuation encourages the open interchanges between the rooms. You don't feel disconnected in the kitchen when divider obstructions are evacuated, and along these lines individuals don't need to venture into the kitchen to converse with you. They can do it from outside the kitchen zone.
Keep your roofs tall by putting in scissors trusses. You can influence your dividers 8 to foot tall, yet by including the scissors truss (crest at 13 to 14 feet) will give you bunches of visual space and a less limited inclination. Also, get a sky facing window in the kitchen. The opening for a sky facing window can be substantially greater than the sky facing window itself. Get the opening from the pinnacle of the roof to the edge of the divider, and find the bay window close to an opposite divider so it will scatter the light all through the kitchen. Put a few "specialties" in your tall dividers over the 8' line for greenery, or statues. Put "puck" lights in these specialties for highlight lighting.
Utilize tall, 2' profound cupboards rather than overhead cupboards. 2 foot profound, 7 foot tall cupboards (or 8 foot tall) are otherwise called wash room or utility cupboards. With settled racks, they hold more than 4 fold the amount of stuff as an overhead bureau. Put a line of tall cupboards along a back divider, and close to the opening to the kitchen zone. By having a 2' wide, 2' profound, 7' tall cupboard close to the Kitchen opening (generally alongside the Dining Area) it can store every one of the glasses, dishes, platters, and dishes that you use once a day. Individuals don't need to enter the kitchen to get the dinnerware to set the table as you would with overhead cupboards.
By utilizing only 3 tall cupboards (2' profound 7' tall) at the back of the kitchen, and the open floor design, this permits all whatever remains of the kitchen to have 36" tall base cupboards and ledges, without overhead cupboards. Disposing of overhead cupboards (and the related divider) just gives you a mind boggling open feeling. The kitchen isn't as so confined. The windows and characteristic light originate from the windows of alternate rooms and sky facing windows, which means you don't need to squander profitable kitchen divider space for windows. Place your sink and cooktop to confront the open rooms.
Toward the edges of the kitchen, introduce cupboards at 45 degrees to the connecting cupboards as opposed to a "visually impaired" cupboard or "lethargic susan". While a 45 degree bureau has some dead space, it uses more space than a "languid susan", for the most part on the grounds that the bureau racks and drawers are square, and an "apathetic susan" is round.
Put a storeroom in the corner between your tall cupboards. It doesn't need to be enormous (4' x 4') and being in the corner will use all the corner "dead" space. The wash room would have a 2' opening at 45 degrees to the bordering cupboards. The wash room dividers could be 2x4 confined with drywall or 3/4" MDF, yet the divider shouldn't be taller than the stature of the tall cupboards. This takes into consideration crown shaping (in the event that you utilize it) to likewise be utilized on the wash room. Have the storeroom open at the best, particularly if there is a sky facing window above, to permit sunlight into the wash room. Have racks from the floor to best of divider. Put a "bureau entryway" (same as whatever is left of your tall cupboards) on the storeroom entrance, not an edge entryway like you'd use in the room. By having a bureau entryway the wash room, and the storeroom dividers at an indistinguishable range from the cupboards, the storeroom resembles a bureau as opposed to a drywall opening.
In the storeroom, introduce a counter with 4 electric outlets. This is the place the espresso creator, toaster, electric can openers, and so forth are to be for all time found. It keeps them off your kitchen ledges, yet they are constantly accessible to utilize. No compelling reason to store them in your cupboards and no requirement for machine carport cupboards. This leaves your primary kitchen ledges "clean" (nothing on them) and more open for the nourishment prep you have to do.
Put an upper counter 8" over your ledges (i.e. 6" divider, 2" thick upper counter). In an "open floor design" idea, this 8" of tallness conceals a "chaotic" kitchen counter from view to alternate rooms. It additionally gives you a lot of space for various electric outlets in the in the 6" divider ranges. The 6" tall divider is the correct stature for 6" earthenware divider tile. The upper counter is 44" (elbow stature) an ideal tallness for "inclining". This enables your visitors to "lean" on the counter (out of the kitchen) and chat with you while you're planning nourishment (in the kitchen). It's likewise a decent tallness for serving nourishment or for tall stools as a breakfast bar. Not the greater part of the upper counters must be the some width. A few areas might be 9" wide (only a best to the kitchen segment, while different segments of the upper counter can be 24'' wide, to serve sustenance or as a breakfast bar.
Now...I'm talking about this segment last on the grounds that distinctive customers utilize their kitchens in an unexpected way, and each individual has their own taste. I'm not discussing the size (in spite of the fact that it's connected), but rather what number of individuals they need in a kitchen. A few customers need everybody in the kitchen, including visitors and relatives, to help in cooking or preparing the dinner, which implies a bigger kitchen to deal with the general population. Others don't need anybody however a couple of individuals in kitchen, so they're not stumbling over individuals to get the feast completed, which implies a littler more productive kitchen.
Most present day house outlines have the kitchen open to the carport or back entryway and open to family room and additionally different rooms, for example, breakfast zones, lounge areas, or lobbies. This implies the kitchen has numerous openings to deal with these capacities. A few kitchens additionally have "island" cupboards/ledges with at least two openings. Every one of the openings to the kitchen enables individuals to come in, remain around, or go through the kitchen from Point A to Point B elsewhere in the house. Additionally, one of the eccentricities of our human brain research is everybody in the long run winds up in the kitchen. This outline idea utilizes the kitchen as a "movement passage". These kitchens require a lot of space to deal with the volume of activity. Once more, a few customers cherish the stream of individuals all through the kitchen. They simply require a bigger kitchen space for this happen
Different customers think the "movement hall" kitchen idea "obstructs" up the kitchen with pointless and undesirable individuals. Include me the "keep-the-pointless individuals out-of-the-kitchen" class. I get a kick out of the chance to keep the kitchen open and welcoming, I simply don't need the additional bodies while the feast is being readied. By keeping the additional bodies out, the kitchen can be littler and more effective, which means less strides between the fridge, cooktop and sink.
Keeping individuals out of the kitchen is anything but difficult to do in your plan, simply make it troublesome for them to get in. Utilize a wrapping ledge with only one (1) ledge opening into the kitchen, and find that opening in the most troublesome spot to enter the kitchen. This, alongside the "open floor design" is the best approach to avert undesirable kitchen activity. The single kitchen passage will mentally keep them out of the kitchen zone, while the open floor design (no dividers) enables you to speak with family and visitors, while keeping them out of the kitchen.
With the goodies I've talked about above and by keeping the general population out of a kitchen, a kitchen size of 16'x10' or 12'x12' is exceptionally successful, with huge amounts of capacity. Making the kitchen an "activity passageway" for individuals to go through, the kitchen would need to twofold in measure, and you're not picking up storage room with that size since every one of the openings to the kitchen are gobbling up what could have been utilized for cupboards.
With respect to lighting, most kitchens have a couple of primary method for lighting (or mix of these)
A. Light in the roof fan
B. "Can" lights in the roof
C. Under-bureau lighting (more often than not puck lights or fluorescent strips)
I by and large reject these lighting ideas. With a light in the roof fan, you generally have the light at your back, which means you're throwing shadows onto all that you do on the ledge. Can lights are "vitality pigs" since they cut huge gaps in your protection, and utilize wasteful glowing lighting (more often than not 75 watt). I don't utilize overhead cupboards so in this manner wipe out under-bureau lighting, which is at times costly
With the tall roofs of a scissors truss, I get a kick out of the chance to utilize MR16 movable light installations, not "can" lights. The MR16's are normally know as "strip" lighting. In any case, you'll need to utilize a "plate" rather than a "strip" for the apparatus association. By utilizing a plate, the MR16 utilizes a standard electrical box, so a littler opening in your protection cover contrasted with a "can" light, and they draw out twice as much light for less wattage (as a rule 50 watts) than a "can" light. MR16 apparatuses can be little (so you don't see them) and not expensive (around $20). MR16's are flexible, which means you can point the light where you need it. A "can" light guides light opposite toward the roof. In a slanted roof, that is bad. Find your lights over the ledge to dispose of shadows, along your significant work territories (sinks, cooktop, cutting and prepare ranges) and after that convey equally along whatever remains of the ledges. You truly needn't bother with lights somewhere else other than for highlight lighting. The lights over the counters will be all that anyone could need, accepting you're keeping the kitchen littler.
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